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Food | The Guardian

Latest Food news, comment and analysis from the Guardian, the world's leading liberal voice

Fermentation is back: how will living organisms reshape your plate?

Fri, 18 Jan 2019 11:00:20 GMT

From coffee to ketchup, bread to sausage, wine to cheese, fermented foods are all around us – but we don’t have to be so afraid of them

There is a moment in the life of fruits and vegetables that has always puzzled and fascinated me. Put out a dish of strawberries, and in days some darker spots will appear. Maybe a thin tendril of mold sprouts out from the strawberry’s body. At this point, you can still eat it, simply by cutting off the moldy bit. But all of a sudden, the strawberry has clearly died. It’s inedible, sour. It has passed over into the world of bacteria, mold and minerals – it is no longer a self-regulating organism. It has stopped being an individual, but has become multitudes.

Related: Kombucha: can the fermented drink compete with beer at the bar?

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Joe Wicks' recipe for barbecue butternut quesadillas

Thu, 17 Jan 2019 11:00:18 GMT

These cheesy quesadillas are packed full of flavour and protein – and are perfect for making ahead if you are busy

These quesadillas are perfect for a midweek meal to get rid of the winter blues. Full of flavour with spring onions and garlic, they have also got lots of beans, packed with protein to fill you up. Dunk the cheesy quesadilla into the avocado dip for a taste sensation. This recipe is perfect to make ahead of time if you are busy; you can just reheat the quesadillas the next day.

Prep time: 10 minutes
Cook time: 7 minutes
Serves: 2

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Harry and Meghan’s wedding chef awarded two Michelin stars

Mon, 01 Oct 2018 19:04:48 GMT

Core restaurant by Clare Smyth wins double accolade in guide for Great Britain and Ireland

Clare Smyth, who catered for Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s evening wedding reception, has been awarded two stars for her first solo venture, Core, in the 2019 Michelin guide for Great Britain and Ireland.

Related: Clare Smyth, world’s best female chef: ‘I’m not going to stand and shout at someone. It’s just not nice’

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Yotam Ottolenghi’s vegan recipes

Sat, 12 Jan 2019 09:30:04 GMT

Crispy couscous with pumpkin and onion, kohlrabi ‘noodles’ and tangerine doughnuts

It’s two weeks into the new year and, with the fridge finally bare of leftovers and the stomach full of one too many treats, the annual pledge to make better choices has finally kicked in. Alas, the extremities of diet and exercise usually fall by the wayside come February. For this reason, I prefer a gentler approach to annual resolutions. A high dosage of vegetables, prepared lovingly and no less decadently than at other times of year, is the prescription – plus a little sweet luxury just to keep me going.

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10 great-value restaurants on Latin America’s 50 best list

Wed, 14 Nov 2018 06:30:09 GMT

From a Buenos Aires spot where greens rule to a ‘house of pig’ in São Paulo, our writer offers a personal selection of affordable restaurants on Latin America’s latest 50 best list

Elaborate tasting menus and fine dining dominate the annual World’s 50 Best Restaurants list but it’s a different story with the Latin American edition of the awards. The top spot for 2018 did go to Lima’s Maido for the second year running (15-course menu £103), but further down the list there are plenty of restaurants offering great cooking at much more affordable prices. Here are 10 of the tastiest bargains around.

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How to make delicious barley water from leftover cooking water | Waste not

Sat, 19 Jan 2019 06:00:10 GMT

Instead of discarding your vegetable or grain cooking water, add sweetener and lemons, and serve with a sprig of mint and plenty of ice

Cooking doesn’t have to be complicated, a skill disappearing with our great-grandmothers or a knowledge harboured only by chefs of great talent. Cooking is, or at least can be, the simplest thing in the world. It’s about having respect for ingredients and where they came from that really ups our game, allowing everyone to produce remarkable and delicious dishes with very little effort.

Of course, seeking out the finest ingredients can be an expensive endeavour, so eating plenty of plants and the whole ingredient mitigates this cost. Even the cooking liquid from a simple boiled vegetable or grain can be saved and used as stock, the base of a soup or, if the boiled ingredient is of particular note, rendered delicious with nothing more than the application of a little love and a pinch of salt.

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Thomasina Miers’ recipe for charred cabbage with artichokes and chestuts | The Simple Fix

Mon, 14 Jan 2019 12:00:04 GMT

This winning combination of winter vegetables is a feast of flavours and colours to combat the January chill

Have you ever noticed how we crave sugary and carb-laden foods after a wild night out? Our bodies are great at demanding the fuels they need, when they need them. As I get older, I find I crave more vegetables than I used to (whoever heard of a teenager craving vegetables?), and far less meat. How great, then, that we celebrate vegetables so much more these days, not just because we know about their many benefits for health and the environment, but because we can make so many wonderful things with them.

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Don't throw out those avocado stones: add them to your spice rack

Sat, 05 Jan 2019 06:00:11 GMT

Grate them as you would nutmeg to give a bitter twang to a variety of Mexican dishes, including this mole sauce

Avocado stones are an intriguing addition to the spice rack, and can be grated, much like nutmeg, to give a bitter twang. They’re also thought to contain nutrients that help lower cholesterol, as well as antioxidant properties, but take such claims with a pinch of salt: scientific studies are still in their early stages.

Mole is a flavourful Mexican sauce with 25-35 ingredients, and avocado leaves feature in many recipes. Instead, try a grating of avocado stone, to balance the sweetness. Usually served with meat, it’s also lovely in tacos with crushed avocado.

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How do you make tofu tasty? | Kitchen aide

Fri, 18 Jan 2019 12:00:21 GMT

Tofu is bascially a blank canvas, a vehicle for other ingredients, so you can throw all sorts of bold flavours at it

I’m aiming to go meat-free for at least half the week. I’ve given tofu a go, but it’s so bland – how do you make it actually taste of anything?
Ruth, Bristol

Much like pasta and white rice, which are equally flavourless when served plain, tofu is more a vehicle for other flavours than a taste sensation in its own right. For those on a plant-based diet, though, it’s an invaluable source of protein, and rich in calcium and iron, among other minerals, so it’s worth adding to your repertoire. It’s also hugely versatile, especially in terms of texture: depending on how it’s prepared and cooked, tofu can be soft and silky or crisp and chewy.

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Len & Alex Deighton’s Italian Cookstrips: Cappellacci di zucca

Sun, 18 Nov 2018 11:00:03 GMT

Len: Pumpkin pasta is no fad. This recipe dates back to 1584.
Alex: It’s the reason the Ferrarese are nicknamed “magnazoca” - pumpkin eaters.

Len Deighton is the author of the Action Cookbook and French Cooking for Men (HarperCollins)

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Grace Dent on being a restaurant critic: 'It's the greatest job in the world but friends never invite me for dinner'

Sat, 12 Jan 2019 09:00:02 GMT

The Guardian’s restaurant critic explains how a hot date nearly ruined naan for her, how she balances her career with veganism, and what she would choose as her desert island dish

How did you start writing about food?

My first review was in about 1998 for Marie Claire magazine. The restaurant is still there and I loved it. I wanted to write about food and have a column from that point but they’re not the kind of jobs you come across easily. You have to pretty much wait for someone to die or give up because they’ve got gout. People carry on as long as they can because it’s the greatest job in the world. Before I started reviewing for the London Evening Standard in 2012, I spent years wanting to be a critic so that I could purge all the things in my head about bad restaurants and good restaurants, but mainly bad ones.

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Quiz: How much do you really know about vegan food?

Mon, 07 Jan 2019 16:17:02 GMT

Think you can you spot a plant-based pasta sauce or a cruelty-free condiment a mile off? Test your knowledge with this vegan food quiz

Which of the following sweets are not vegan?

Marshmallows

Boiled sweets

Flying saucers

Which of these fruits might some vegans avoid?

Bananas

Apples

Figs

One of these condiments is vegan, which is it?

Mayonnaise

Pesto sauce

Frank’s red hot buffalo wings sauce

Which shop-bought pastry isn’t vegan?

Puff pastry

Filo pastry

Croissant dough

Biscuit time. Which one isn't vegan?

Bourbon biscuits

Fox’s Party Rings

Shortbread

One jar of shop-bought pasta sauce isn't vegan, which is it?

Bolognese

Puttanesca

Tomato and red pepper

Pick the non-vegan condiment:

Worcestershire sauce

Barbecue sauce

Mustard

Which alcohol is almost always vegan?

Vodka

Beer

Wine

Which supermarket pasta is almost always vegan?

Dried pasta

Fresh pasta

Gnocchi

Which of these world religions eats an exclusively vegan diet?

Hinduism

Buddhism

Jainism

Only one of these breakfast cereals is almost always vegan, which is it?

Porridge oats

Cornflakes

Wholegrain wheat biscuits

What type of chocolate is almost always vegan?

Milk

Dark

White

7 and above.

Good work, you’re well on your way to being a Veganuary guru. But did you know you can now get non-dairy versions of three of Ben & Jerry’s most popular ice-creams?

10 and above.

We bow down in the presence of your exemplary vegan knowledge! But did you know you can now get non-dairy versions of three of Ben & Jerry’s most popular ice-creams?

0 and above.

Oh dear, you really need to brush up on your vegan food knowledge. Here’s a fun fact to get you started: you can now get non-dairy versions of three of Ben & Jerry’s most popular ice-creams.

4 and above.

Nice try, but when it comes to vegan food, you still have a lot to learn. For instance, did you know you can now get non-dairy versions of three of Ben & Jerry’s most popular ice-creams?

Make your Veganuary extra indulgent with Ben & Jerry’s non-dairy Chocolate Fudge Brownie, Peanut Butter & Cookies and Coconutterly Caramel’d ice-creams. Get the inside scoop on the range at benjerry.co.uk/flavours/non-dairy

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Georgia on my plate: a culinary journey in the Caucasus

Sun, 09 Dec 2018 11:00:14 GMT

No lesson in the complex art of Georgian cuisine is complete without a toast or two, says our writer on a tour of the country’s mountains and cities
Suzanne Moore in ‘mind-blowingly gorgeous Georgia’

“This is a crazy Georgian situation,” says Ketino Sujashvili, with a hint of theatrical relish, as a dozen different crises flare up in her kitchen all at once.

I’ve just arrived at Ketino’s guesthouse in Kazbegi, northern Georgia, for an informal cooking class – the plan is to make khinkali, the soupy minced-meat dumplings prized in this spectacular region of the High Caucasus mountains. It begins smoothly enough, with the women in Ketino’s kitchen creating a space for me at their table, clearly amused by this lanky Irishman eager to learn the secrets of Georgian cuisine.

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Din Tai Fung, London WC2: ‘Here's the rub about hype’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent

Fri, 04 Jan 2019 10:00:11 GMT

Would you queue up to five hours for a taste of some dumplings? Me neither

Hype is a vital pivot of the restaurant scene. I wish I could reveal something more wholesome, but hype will put more bums on seats and napkins in laps than a new opening’s deft seasoning or fancy produce suppliers. At the all-new, 250-seater Din Tai Fung in London’s Covent Garden, those shadowy voices of hype said we should expect an opening-week queue of five hours. In December, on a busy, pre-Christmas tourist thoroughfare, bring a cagoule and stay hydrated, because the queue for its xiao long bao and salted egg custard lava buns will feel like the sort of war of attrition from which Stephen King could milk 500 pages.

Hype of the level surrounding Din Tai Fung, I must stress, is not created simply by paid public relations teams. Clearly they help, but real, giddy hype will always be something of a perfect storm. Din Tai Fung is a global chain that specialises in Taiwanese dumplings and Huaiyang cuisine. The company has made moves on London in a swaggering – albeit politely swaggering – manner by commandeering two enormo-restaurants in the eye-wateringly expensive real-estate zones of Henrietta Street and, soon, Oxford Street’s Centre Point. What’s less easy to decipher is why Din Tai Fung is “cool right now”, which would require a spider-chart with quantitative variables on youth trends, shifting demographics, plus some lemming-attracting pixie dust.

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Gridiron, London: ‘So nearly but not quite’ – restaurant review

Sun, 06 Jan 2019 06:00:07 GMT

It has a good chef and a promising menu, but Gridiron on Park Lane never escapes its setting

Gridiron, Como Metropolitan Hotel, 19 Old Park Lane, London W1K 1LB (020 7447 1080). Snacks, starters £7-£25; mains £20-£40; desserts £8-£9; wines from £29

Standalone restaurants in hotels are an act of shared illusion. Both the people who run them and those who eat in them have to pretend it’s a real place with its own robust identity, not just that space to the right of reception which, in another life, could have been a function room booked out for presentations by moist-lipped salespeople with timeshares to flog.

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How to make a vegan beanburger | Felicity Cloake

Wed, 16 Jan 2019 12:00:20 GMT

A Mexican-inspired version of the meat-free burger with black bean, avocado and spicy homemade sauce

I’m delighted that commercial meatless burgers have come on in leaps and bounds in recent years. You can’t beat a homemade bean burger, whether or not you follow a plant-based diet. The Mexican-inspired spicing of this squidgy black-bean version means it’s lovely with some ripe avocado, but I like a dollop of burger sauce and a slice of cheese, too. Both vegan, naturally.

Prep 40 min
Chill At least 1 hr
Cook 20 min
Serves 4

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Cocktail of the week: mango shandy | The good mixer

Fri, 18 Jan 2019 15:00:23 GMT

A tropical refresher to warm the winter cockles over the cold weeks ahead

A refreshing, tropical glassful from Brigadiers restaurant, London EC4, to help you through the dark days of winter. The shrub makes enough for 15-20 servings, but it keeps in the fridge for a week and makes a lovely soft drink with soda or ginger ale.

Serves 1

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Naked lunch: why diners couldn't stomach the Paris nudist restaurant

Wed, 09 Jan 2019 16:53:16 GMT

O’naturel’s eating in the buff failed to catch on and it’s closing after 15 months. Is this the end for novelty dining experiences?

Paris’s nudist restaurant O’naturel is to close its doors next month, just 15 months after it opened. “We want to make gastronomy work for nudity,” cofounder Stéphane Saada, a former insurance salesman, said in 2017. Instead, the website now states, “it is with great regret” that the time has come to pull the plug.

Contacted for comment, Saada and his twin brother and business partner, Mike, said there wasn’t much else to say: “We’re shutting down because we didn’t have enough clients. We would have preferred this adventure to go on for longer … We had a great start; now it’s best we close.”

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Dry January: it’s never been easier to go alcohol-free | Fiona Beckett on wine

Fri, 18 Jan 2019 14:00:22 GMT

Shunning the booze this month? Luckily, supermarket shelves are now stacked with tasty alternatives to keep you on the wagon

So how is it going for those of you who are doing dry January? Struggling? Getting bored with soft drinks? Although I’m not doing it myself (let’s face it, it would be hard, considering the day job), I thought a few suggestions might help you through the next 13 days.

The good news is that it’s never been as easy to go booze-free, with supermarket shelves rapidly filling up with alternatives to the classic alcoholic drinks. According to sector pioneer Ben Branson of the non-alcoholic “spirit” Seedlip, there have been more than 30 launches in the past six months alone. And Seedlip’s launching a new sister brand, an aperitif called Aecorn, in the next few weeks.

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Levan, London SE15: ‘Wholly enticing deliciousness’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent

Fri, 18 Jan 2019 10:00:17 GMT

A dinner that leaves you not just laughing, but also learning

Levan is a new restaurant in Peckham, south-east London, named after the Paradise Garage DJ Larry Levan, who found fame in late-70s New York. Should you wish to experience a flash of this legendary dancefloor’s ambience, I recommend drinking three, four or even five glasses of skin-contact Cosimo Maria Masini, then visiting Levan’s bathroom. It is a softly lit, inkily painted, one-person water closet with a speaker pumping out buoyant electronic, post-disco and garage tunes. It’s like being front and centre for a live 2am 1981 performance by Sylvester.

I’m not certain if this works without the wine. Neither am I certain that any of the late Jonathan Gold’s Pulitzer prize-enticing restaurant critiques started with his views on the loos, but I am a firm believer that a restaurant is almost as much about mood as it is food, and that the team behind Levan – chef Nicholas Balfe and his front-of-house partners Mark Gurney and Matt Bushnell – are engineers of the new wave of highly relaxed yet incredibly drilled hospitality.

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Four easy everyday recipes for vegans

Sat, 12 Jan 2019 07:30:35 GMT

Four family favourites – lasagne, shepherd’s pie, scrambled eggs and mac’n’cheese – get a meat-free makeover

Prep Overnight
Cook 5 min
Serves 2

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How to make your own vermouth from leftover wine | Waste Not

Sat, 29 Dec 2018 06:00:14 GMT

Open bottles of wine left over from Christmas and New Year can be turned into aromatic sweet vermouth

Whether you drink a little or a lot, you’ll likely have some leftover wine at some point, especially after the Christmas indulgences. An open bottle will keep and stay drinkable for three to five days, but if it gets any older, use it up in all manner of dishes, from bourguignon to bolognese. Alternatively, be more adventurous, save up your old wine until you’ve got 500ml, and make a bottle of your very own vermouth, a fortified wine full of aromatic botanicals. It’s delicious served neat over ice or made into my favourite New Year’s Eve cocktail, negroni (to make that, just pour a shot each of your very own vermouth, gin and Campari into a glass, and serve on ice with a slice of orange).

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Stop stressing about the perfect diet, it's human to fail

Thu, 17 Jan 2019 12:00:16 GMT

Diet regimes are full of crass slogans, but one thing holds true: go easy on yourself

Recently, I received an email from a young woman who told me that, although she was struggling with an eating disorder, she got great pleasure from reading my restaurant reviews. She said reading about, and enjoying, such enthusiasm for food made her feel normal. I’m sure it did. My reviews gave her the opportunity to engage with a conversation around what we eat, without having to do any actual eating, which is the bit she finds tricky. She’s not a one-off. I’ve had multiple emails like this over the years from people in the grips of eating disorders, who enjoy reading restaurant reviews.

It is literally pathological behaviour, but it does shine a light on the massive gulf that can open up between the act of writing about food and the extremely human business of eating it. That is most obvious at this time of year, when we are assailed by advice designed to help us find the new us. It doesn’t matter whether we are happy with the old us. We are promised we can create a new shiny version, one mouthful at a time.

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‘There’s never been a better time to be vegan’

Fri, 11 Jan 2019 10:33:07 GMT

With restaurants, chefs and well-known brands introducing more vegan options than ever, sticking to a plant-based diet is now both simple and indulgent, says Club Mexicana’s Meriel Armitage

A decade ago, when I decided to go vegan for ethical reasons, the word “decadent” was one you’d never have used to describe the food available. More often than not, it fitted the joyless stereotype of lentils, quinoa and tofu, with the occasional Linda McCartney vegan sausage to liven things up. Now, though, ask a vegan what they ate last night and they’re likely to say anything from pizza topped with gooey melted “cheese” to crispy fried “chicken” or pulled jackfruit burritos. The vegan scene has truly exploded, introducing food that’s exciting, colourful and indulgent, whether you’re vegan or not.

When I launched my pop-up, Club Mexicana, in 2012 I wanted to challenge the boringly virtuous chickpea and chia seed perception of veganism. Inspired by my travels in the US, where vegan food is innovative and delicious, I wanted to prove that being vegan doesn’t mean missing out.

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Imperial Treasure, London: ‘deadens the soul’ – restaurant review

Sun, 13 Jan 2019 05:59:00 GMT

What’s worse than a £100 crispy duck in a smart new Chinese place? Half a duck

Imperial Treasure, 9 Waterloo Place, London SW1Y 4BE (020 3011 1328). Starters £12-£36. Main courses £18-£100+. Peking Duck £100. Desserts £7.50. Wines from £38

There is an assumption that the more you spend on an experience, the better it will be. I am forever guilty of such a delusion, borne more of hopefulness than stupidity. Few things give the lie to this better than the grinding, laboured, thudding mediocrity of a meal at Imperial Treasure, the London outpost of a gilded Chinese restaurant group which is to joy, what a public enema is to dignity.

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The ultimate vegan baked alaska recipe

Fri, 11 Jan 2019 10:32:21 GMT

This indulgent, retro dessert just got a vegan makeover, thanks to non-dairy ice-cream and aquafaba meringue

Serves 8
Prep: 1 hour 20 minutes, plus 4-5 hours for freezing
Cook: 25-30 minutes

For the cake:
125g dairy-free baking spread
150ml dairy-free milk
2 tsp white wine vinegar
125g caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
175g self-raising flour
1 tsp baking powder

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Gaz Oakley's vegan cakes and puddings

Sat, 12 Jan 2019 07:45:33 GMT

Four classic desserts – chocolate fondants, cheesecake, carrot cake and tiramisu – given a dairy-free makeover

Prep 15 min
Cook 50 min
Serves 12–14

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Vegan French home cooking – recipes | Alexis Gauthier

Sat, 12 Jan 2019 07:15:32 GMT

Classic French dishes, including dauphinois and bourguignon, given a vegan makeover

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Liam Charles’ recipe for vegan rum and raisin sponge | The Sweet Spot

Sat, 12 Jan 2019 11:00:06 GMT

Try this out on your friends and you can bet they’ll never know the difference

The start of the year means it’s time to try something new. This cake is perfect for vegan January. A lot of people might think vegan food is boring, lacks flavour and that the ingredients are difficult to source. But, trust me, it’s so easy, and if you follow the right recipe – er, like this one – it’s going to be super tasty. Don’t tell your mates this cake is vegan, and see if they pick up on it.

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The ultimate vegan Friday night feast

Mon, 07 Jan 2019 16:15:47 GMT

You’ve made it through the week, and now you want to celebrate with some good food. Vegan Miranda Larbi shares her tips for creating an indulgent Veganuary feast

There really is nothing quite as wonderful as logging off at 5pm on a Friday knowing that you’ve got no plans or dates with anyone except your sofa and Netflix.

Back in the day, you may have thought that anything short of spending Saturday with a banging hangover was an abject failure but, in these busy times of hyper-connectivity, having a little down time during peak socialising hours can be seen as the ultimate luxury.

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Beetroot Sauvage, Edinburgh: ‘More Germaine Greer than Gwyneth Paltrow’ – restaurant review

Fri, 11 Jan 2019 10:00:11 GMT

Simple, nourishing vegan food served by people who may or may not have once played timpani in Chumbawamba

‘Yoga and fondue,” said the flyer stuck to the door of Beetroot Sauvage on Ratcliffe Terrace, Edinburgh. The evening in question involved a session of “soma lunar flow” in a low-lit studio, followed by bread and crudites dipped into vegan cheese substitute. That flyer revealed much about this new plant-based cafe and wellness centre, not least to my other half Charles, who began snorting dissent in the manner of a stubborn horse being led up a box ramp.

Personally, I’m pro any dinner for which something sentient was not partially stunned and done away with on my behalf, so Beetroot Sauvage, give or take some of the website’s blurb about blissful energies, joyful eating and magical safe spaces, is my sort of place. This is a boho-style cafe-restaurant, more shack than chic, serving a thoughtful, ever-changing vegan menu: dals, power porridges, homemade cakes, Buddha bowls, tagines and so on. Meanwhile, in the studios upstairs, there are vinyasa yoga, chi kung and tai chi classes, although the majority of the clientele, including several dogs, numerous children and many people wearing fractal leggings, seemed to be there simply to lunch.

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Turning stale bread into ice-cream won’t save the world – but won’t do any harm, either

Wed, 16 Jan 2019 17:08:56 GMT

A small but steady movement of chefs is already having a go at turning kitchen waste into something new, the most appealing of which is savoury ice-cream

At the beginning of the year, the UK government appointed a waste tsar. The idea would be for this chap – businessman Ben Elliott who happens to be a nephew of the Duchess of Cornwall – to end any waste going to landfills by 2030, manage the government’s £15m food waste fund and redistribute any surplus food.

We waste a stunning 10.2m tonnes of food each year, so it’s a fine idea on paper. Don’t hold your breath, though. In 2010, the then Tory-led coalition government made the ironic choice of appointing Philip Green as its efficiency tsar. We’re probably better off having a go ourselves.

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Gill Meller's recipes for hearty meat dinners

Sat, 19 Jan 2019 07:00:08 GMT

Warming, meaty meals for a chilly day. Choose from lamb broth, chicken casserole, beef stew or venison pie

Prep 20 min
Cook 4 hr
Serves 4

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How to match wines to a vegan diet

Fri, 11 Jan 2019 14:00:14 GMT

An increasing number of wines are vegan, but which ones to pair with your healthy new year recipes?

There’s a lot of noise right now about vegan wines, as if they’re some huge new trend. In fact, these days a great many wines are already made in a way that makes them suitable, and have been for some time. The key requirement is that no animal-derived products are used in their production, ruling out isinglass (fish bladder), egg whites and milk protein during fining, a clarifying process.

But how can you tell? Well, almost all supermarket own-label wines make it clear, plus an increasing number of producers put the information on their labels, and organic sites such as Vintage Roots list wines that are vegan. Yet this doesn’t guarantee that vegans will regard them favourably. Just as food can contain plenty of E numbers, it’s perfectly possible for a commercial wine that’s made in huge quantities to use additives in the winemaking process. If that concerns you, look out for natural or organic wines that are not fined or filtered.

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Gravity-defying dessert, $195 mac’n’cheese and Beyoncé’s guacamole: the tastiest food TV

Wed, 29 Aug 2018 14:17:21 GMT

There’s plenty to satisfy your food-based telly cravings in the week between Great British Bake Off episodes. Here’s our pick ...

While everyone was busy being distracted by all the prestige drama, streaming services have quietly built up a giant stockpile of food shows. With CNN’s Anthony Bourdain documentary not out for at least another year, and the next episode of the Great British Bake Off almost a whole week away, here’s a list of all the food shows you should be watching instead.

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The £14 cauliflower steak: is this the cost of vegan cooking being taken seriously?

Wed, 16 Jan 2019 16:04:46 GMT

Young’s pub chain caused uproar for charging the same for cauliflower steaks as for Aberdeen Angus – but this may be the price we pay for creativity in meat-free cooking

In the last financial year, London-based pub company Young’s celebrated pre-tax profits of £37.6m. This week, we got an insight into how that might have been achieved with news that Young’s 148 pubs were selling a meal for two of cauliflower steak for £28: the same price as two Aberdeen Angus steaks.

Whichever way you slice it, £14 for a dish with a main component that costs less than a pound feels grabby. The general rule for pricing restaurant dishes is a 70% gross profit on the ingredient costs, to cover all the associated labour and outgoings, leaving a notional 10% clear profit. This – flagged on Twitter as “properly mental” by the food writer and event creator Jamie Klingler – looked more like a 90% GP, and a blatant attempt to cash in on Veganuary.

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Anna Jones’ porridge recipes | The modern cook

Fri, 18 Jan 2019 12:00:21 GMT

Two ways with porridge that are anything but bland: with cherries and cashew butter, plus a quick fix for a rushed morning

I have a love-hate relationship with porridge. It’s easy, it’s warming on cold days and it’s a nourishing family staple. But I struggle with its blandness. These two recipes, though, are on pretty heavy rotation at home. The cherry-topped porridge has serious hits of flavour, texture and an almost white-chocolate creaminess thanks to the cashew butter. The other, a quick fix on a rushed morning, is coconut-laced instant porridge: think gourmet Ready Brek.

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The rise and fall of the TV chef | Tim Hayward

Sun, 19 Aug 2018 10:00:18 GMT

There may never be another Jamie Oliver or Gordon Ramsay. Why would today’s young chefs be interested in working in food television?

For almost as long as there has been TV, there have been cooks on it – from 1940s original Philip Harben to the Sainted Delia – but it was around 1999 that TV producer Pat Llewellyn, in a blaze of genius, brought Jamie Oliver and Gordon Ramsay to life on our screens, in sweaty whites and clogs, but repositioned as sexy. These weren’t TV presenters with some distant history of cooking or food writing, these were real chefs and we were going to share their lives and love them like rock stars.

Celebrity chefs with one foot in the kitchen and one on the studio floor became the dominant phenomenon of British media and for a couple of decades, the overwhelming ambition of many young cooks was to break into TV, while the image – mercurial, driven, invariably male, perfectionist, a Marco Pierre White filtered through his scion Ramsay – became a template. All that, though, is suddenly up for grabs. We’re witnessing a change in the peculiar relationship between chefs and celebrity.

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Four quick and cheap vegan recipes

Sat, 12 Jan 2019 07:00:38 GMT

Nothing wrong with lentils and rice, but go one step further with spinach and chickpeas, chard and borlotti beans, or mushroom and edamame

Perfect as a main dish for Sunday lunch, or as a midweek dinner served with crusty bread. If you have any left over, blend with vegetable stock for a smooth, flavourful soup. This cassoulet is a great way to use up apples, even if they are bruised or wrinkly, and it’s also suitable for freezing.

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Best vegan restaurants in the UK: readers’ travel tips

Thu, 08 Nov 2018 06:30:05 GMT

With influences ranging from Van Gogh to Asia, these vegan venues serve up arty as well as delicious food – on beaches, buses … and in an underpass

Bundobust is fast becoming a Leeds institution for food lovers of all persuasions. Everything is veggie, and a large proportion of the menu is vegan, with an easy vegan sharing menu for two a great way in. From the okra fries dusted in black salt and mango powder (genius) to the chole dal and masala dosa, its south Indian street food, craft beer and Asian-inspired cocktails are a winning combo. With dishes from £4-6.50 it’s also easy on the wallet, so you can try a bit of everything.
bundobust.com
Laura King

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Cocktail of the week: Aji margarita | The Good Mixer

Fri, 11 Jan 2019 15:00:13 GMT

Using chilli-infused tequila gives the classic drink a bit more of a kick

To make the infused tequila, use any brand you have to hand. It’s preferable to use fresh jalapeño, because you want it good and spicy. Failing that, just slice any hot chilli you can get hold of and drop it into the bottle. Leave to infuse for five to six hours, then remove.

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Don’t discard those nutritious carrot tops | Waste Not

Sat, 12 Jan 2019 06:00:37 GMT

Not only do they add a depth of flavour and complexity to a dish, they also aid digestion

Carrot tops are a nutritious and versatile ingredient that can be used to replace herbs in all kinds of dishes. We often use the ornate leaves as a garnish at Poco, our restaurant in Bristol. The tops have a slightly bitter flavour, so combine them with other herbs and a squeeze of lemon or vinegar as a counterbalance.

While bitter greens add a depth of flavour and complexity, they also aid digestion. There has been little research on the health benefits of carrot tops, but they are rich in nutrients, containing around six times more vitamin C than the root, as well as lots of potassium, calcium and phytonutrients.

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Meera Sodha’s vegan recipe for lentil rasam and roast red cabbage | The New Vegan

Sat, 12 Jan 2019 10:00:04 GMT

A dal buzzing with spices topped with sweet charred cabbage, guaranteed to revive you when you’re feeling sluggish

There are dals to comfort and dals to revive. Rasam is a reviver, the kind of thing I want to eat when I’m feeling sluggish. It’s thinner than your average dal, brothy and buzzing with spices, with a defined, sour edge. Here, I serve it with my current addiction, roast red cabbage, whose leaves sweeten, soften and char in the heat of the oven. It’s perfect on its own for a light meal, or with rice for something more substantial.

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